Twelve hours in a city is never long enough to dive deep, but since it’s my second time and I am going from Haneda to Narita airport–carpe diem! Last time I was in Tokyo was less than a year ago, it was interspersed throughout a week, and for a city this big a week could fly by. Heck, I was so conflicted with having to share time with Kyoto (probably my favorite of the two cities I’ve been in Japan so far) but here’s to making the power 12 hour in Tokyo a reality!What makes Tokyo so accessible for long layover/short adventures? The public transit is sublime, their taxi culture is superb, and there’s so much accessibility to activities/places at all hours. Last year when my friend and I woke up super early and were hungry, we went to a local diner where some folks were definitely passed out from having gone there to sober up. Rather than kick them out the one man show chef/cleaner/etc. just cleaned around them and let them be. Japan’s hospitality culture really is hard to beat.

Overview
Kaminarimon Gate marks the entrance to a plethora of street vendors en route to Asakusa’s famous Sensoji Buddhist Temple

Travel from Airport to Tokyo

Again this city is so accessible. From Haneda, it’s usually just a 30 minute train ride to downtown Tokyo. There’s also several ways you can get there:

  • Keikyu Train Line
  • Tokyo Monorail
  • Taxis (JapanTaxi is my go to since it’s the Uber of Japan and eliminates worries about language barrier)
  • Buses (limousine buses is the popular name for them in Asia they’re just charter lines to major tourist stops, I used one in Seoul to go to Seongnam and while not the same country had a largely positive experience)

From Narita to downtown Tokyo…you have so many more options. That being said you have more variable time, 45-120 minutes is the rough range. As the Skyliner connects Narita to Tokyo, you may (or may not!) be surprised to hear that train is the fastest way into the main city area. Since last time I was here my friend and I just nabbed the JR Rail Pass for the week (we were on a Tokyo/Kyoto mission) I’ll leave Cheapo Tokyo’s Narita Transfer Guide right here.

All I remember is finding this Fluffy Pancake near Harajuku in 2019 and I still dream of them. Unfortunately this cafe no longer exists 🙁 not to say Tokyo isn’t full of great places!

Scratching the Surface on Food

I can’t believe I’ve gone this long without talking about food. Japan is such a food paradise, part of their tourism is cemented in it. They have sites like Savor Japan dedicated to such endeavors. Even without hunting down reservations and Michelin stars, Tokyo is a force to be reckoned with. For those with a sweet tooth, Shibuya becomes my go to recommendation as it is the birthplace of Brick Toast, as well as a hub for some of the most popular Fluffy/Japanese Pancake spots around. (Yes I did just breeze past all the shopping, Harajuku district, Shibuya crossing, and Hachiko Statue to focus on food.) I recall even finding a great conveyor belt sushi spot while there. We managed to scald ourselves while getting tea but otherwise it was a great experience!

Not a conveyor belt but equally delightful, pardon the quality it was a phone camera.
Nigiriya Hachibe in Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo

I know for a fact conveyor belt sushi is on my must eat again list because in a nation known for quality fish, you really will never get cheaper or better than here. For those who are super enthusiasts you can go to the Tsukiji Fish Market. I would say come with an open mind as the fish auction portion of the Fish Market moved. It’s still worth a gander but depending on what you’re looking for Toyosu Fish Market is where you want to be. Frankly I would take uni buns and street snacking (found in Tsukiji) over tuna auction watching (now in Toyosu) any day but I’m a street food kind of gal after all. The famous restaurants also moved to Toyosu, so they’re still around, just no longer in the chaos of Tsukiji.

On top of that, because apparently this is the year all the people I know get some Tokyo time before the Olympics hit–lots of food is on the mind from great conversations. Okonomiyaki is a love affair I cannot seem to ever satiate. My colleagues in LA tease me that every time I try to go to a okonomiyaki shop in Little Tokyo it’s closed. While this treat is really an Osaka staple, it’s still on my radar since Tokyo’s such a food-centric city. Currently I’m waiting for the aforementioned colleague’s suggestions of places (she’s parsing between near Haneda vs near Narita options) so interim I’ll shamelessly plug Japan Wireless’ Okonomiyaki list. Much like the list, her, and a former Tokyo native’s, recommendation is Kiji near Shinagawa Station (the less crowded location compared to Tokyo station’s location).

It’s hard to not rave about food all day long…I mean…Hungry is the first real word in this blog (sorry articles you’re null to me). General/additional foods I’d say everyone needs and may or may not be on my radar this time around include but are not limited to

  • Katsudon
  • Matcha everything
  • Takoyaki
  • Omelette Rice (total bias here)
  • Soba
  • Tsukemen (dipping ramen)
  • Pudding (flan/custard not American pudding)
Omelette Rice in Asakusa on the way to Sensoji. I hate that I never got the name but it was the BEST way to kick off Tokyo 2019. All I recall is it’s east of the strip of kisoks halfway to the temple and that the owner took such pride in his work and hospitality. It was such a local joint full of quality, peace, and good food.